Macro photography tips, images and photographs
Shown below is a set of 10 amazing macro photographs. Each photograph includes an explanation of the camera equipment that was used and tips on how it was taken. While many of the images have been taken with a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens, the settings can be reproduced with any real macro lens. You’ll aslo notice they were photographed with an entry level DLSR camera from quite a few years back now! My point being, anyone with a DSLR camera can shoot awesome macro photographs.
Click on each image to see a larger version of the photograph.
1. Hoverfly in flight
Photograph of a hoverfly in flight was taken with a Canon 400D SLR entry level camera, a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens and a Canon Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX flash.
Exposure (shutter speed): 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 200
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern
Macro photography tip #1: If possible, use a ring flash or twin lite flash when shooting macro. It will allow you to shoot at a reasonable speed, yet enable you to keep the aperture on a high f/11 for sufficient depth of field. Of course, I understand it isn’t always possible for fellow DSLR photographers to purchase such equipment. No problem, keep reading for other tips.
This macro photograph of a flying insect was taken in a shady part of the garden. Using a Canon Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX flash allowed me to keep the aperture on a high f/11 without sacrificing shutter speed (exposure). Having the ability to keep the shutter speed at a fast 1/200th of a second allowed me to capture the moving insect sharply. It also allowed me to hand hold the camera without the use of a tripod. Like many macro photographers, I find a tripod really restrictive when photographing insects.
Macro photography tip #2: Learn to use manual focus when shooting insects. As the hoverfly was constantly moving, I found turning off the lens AF (automatic focus) function made the job so much easier. If I hadn’t turned this lens setting off, it would have kept swimming or refocusing, making it near impossible to capture a sharp image of the hoverfly.
2. Unshaven dragonfly face
This macro was taken with a Canon 400D SLR camera, a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens and a Canon Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX flash.
Exposure (shutter speed): 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 200
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern
Macro photography tip #3: Learn how to be patient. Don’t run around like a mad photographer chasing an insect that won’t sit still. In my experience, that doesn’t work! You’ll be surprised how many insects are as curious of you, as you are of them.
I was lucky with this macro shot to have found a curious dragonfly. He sat really still and would allowed me to move in as close as I needed for a detailed macro photo of his whiskers. This also allowed me to keep the camera’s lens set on AF (automatic focus).
Macro photography tip #4: Crop macro images nice and tight, especially for online viewing. The original dragonfly image was cropped with Photoshop CS2 so the dragonflies face takes up the majority of the final composition.
3. Blue dragonfly
Similar to the first two macro photographs, this one was also taken with a Canon 400D SLR camera and a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens.
Exposure: 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern
Macro photography tip #5: Once again, learn patience. This dragonfly come up to me as I sat under a tree, so I took the opportunity to take a few macro shots of it. This is one of my best tips for macro insect photography. I can’t repeat it enough. Personally, I’ve found it hopeless chasing them around like a mad photographer. That only seems to scare them away. Instead, it’s best to be patient and wait until you find a curious insect that is sitting still.
4. Macro water drop
Playing with water droplets, a Canon EF 100/2.8 Macro USM lens and extension tubes. For those that don’t know what extension tubes are, they are a plastic tube that sits between your camera’s body and the lens. When using extension tubes, you need to set your lens to MF (manual focus), because the automatic focus won’t work. Nowadays if you purchase extension tubes that are the same brand as your macro lens, you may be able to keep all the automatic functions (depending on the brand).
Exposure: 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/0
Focal Length: 0 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern
Flash: Onboard flash fired, as seen in the water drop.
Macro photography tip #6: Experiment with extension tubes. They are cheaper than you might think. If you view a photographs EXIF data and notice the aperture and focal length are showing as zero (0), chances are the photographer used an extension tube or some piece of equipment that sat between the camera’s body and the lens.
Macro photography tip #7: All the best macro photographers set shots up. This shot of a water droplet was taken with a plastic bag (and a pin hole in it) being held over a fish tank. The camera was then focused past the glass tank and onto the droplet. There is a detailed explanation showing the setup for it at: How to photograph water drops.
5. What the snake see’s
Photographed with a Canon 400D and a EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens. When photographing a friendly carpet snake, it was a great opportunity for a self portrait. If you click on this image and view it in a larger size, you will clearly see exactly what the snake was looking at!
Exposure (shutter speed): 0.033 sec (1/30)
Aperture: f/2.8
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 100
Macro photography tip #8: Use a tripod if you cannot shoot faster than the length of your lens. For example, this photograph was taken with the use of a tripod and a remote release. Having a slower shutter speed of 1/30th of a second, I wouldn’t have achieved a sharp image if the camera was handheld. A general rule of thumb for hand held macro shots, is that if your lens is 100mm focal length, then the shutter speed needs to be at least 1/100th of a second or faster to achieve a sharp photograph. Therefore, if you are shooting in a shady spot of the garden, you will need a tripod to achieve great results.
6. Katydid macro
Picture of a Katydid photographed with a Canon 400D SLR and a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens.
Exposure: 0.008 sec (1/125)
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern
Macro photography tip #9: Just because your macro lens can shoot with an aperture of f/2.8 doesn’t mean you should use it. For this shot, the ISO was upped to 400 speed so I could keep the aperture at a higher F number of f/11. This enabled me to get more of the Katydid in sharp focus. One of the mistakes I did when I first purchased my macro lens, was to keep the F number at a low F2.8 (just because I could). Later on I realised this wasn’t always a good idea, unless you intend on getting just the eye of an insect in focus.
7. Eye in the sky (photographed by 2minutes who can be found on flickr)
This macro shot of a butterfly was photographed with a Nikon D40 camera and a Nikon AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED lens.
Exposure (shutter speed): 0.002 sec (1/500)
Aperture: f/7.1
Focal Length: 105 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern
Macro photography tip #10: When shooting macro, shutter speed is more important than ISO. Because this butterfly was moving around quite a bit, the photographer upped the ISO speed to 400, so he could keep a faster shutter speed of 1/500th of a second.
8. Fairyland
Macro photography tip #11: Learn to see. This is what I’ve always imagined fairyland to be like 
However, in actual fact it’s a macro shot of the tiniest moss, found at the bottom of an orchid pot. This is the beauty of macro photography, in that you get to really appreciate the smaller things in life and see them in a whole different light.
The camera was a Canon 400D SLR and the lens a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro.
Exposure (shutter speed): 0.025 sec (1/40)
Aperture: f/5.6
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 200
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern
9. Miss Ladybird
Photograph of a ladybird taken with a Canon 400D SLR and a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens.
Exposure (shutter speed): 0.002 sec (1/640)
Aperture: f/7.1
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern
Macro photography tip #12: If you don’t photograph the shot you initially want, that’s ok. The only reason the shutter speed is set to a fast 1/640th of a second in this case, is because I was attempting to capture the ladybird as it flies off. However, I wasn’t too successful this time around at getting one in flight. Although it’s still a personal favorite
10. Butt Heavy
Just had to love how hairy this little fellow was
Photo of a dragonfly taken with a Canon 400D SLR and a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens.
Exposure (shutter speed): 0.005 sec (1/200)
Aperture: f/11
Focal Length: 100 mm
ISO Speed: 400
Exposure Program: Manual
Metering Mode: Pattern
Macro photography tip #13: Make good use of morning sunlight to capture detail not seen otherwise. This particular photograph was taken at 8.30 in the morning with strong sunlight coming from behind the dragonfly. While many photographers don’t like shooting into the sun, I find when it comes to macro photography, it can often help to highlight an insects tiny hairs. You do need to be careful not to capture lens flare though. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. Trying numerous angles also helps to find the best position.
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{ 24 comments }
Thank you for making this accessable for newbies like myself. I am just starting to get into digital photography and I am on a budget due to my recent purchase of my Nikon D60 and a couple lenses and some cool accessories. I can’t wait to try some of these techniques.
Thanks again for sharing some really awsome photos.
Ron
So with macro would you recommend setting your camera in aperture or shutter speed priority?
Hi John,
This depends on what is important to you, depth of field or freezing a subject in motion when you photograph it. Personally, on a windy day I like to use shutter priority to stop motion blur. This is also good if your photographing an insect or bug that is in flight or won’t stop moving. If your subject is motionless and you want to ensure either a nicely blurred background, or that a certain percentage of it is in focus, then use aperture priority.
Hope this helps
This is a wonderful resource, thank you! I just purchased a Nikon D90 and the Nikon AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED lens. I too was trying to shoot everything at 2.8, haha.
My question is, how have you managed to compensate for the focus breathing (image size changes with focusing) issue? When my tiny critters are moving back and forth and darting near and far in a flash (and changing size to boot!), it is awkward to get everything ‘in sync’ to frame AND focus the shot. Sometimes I ‘lose’ the subject altogether and have to lower the camera and re-group, missing the moment completely.
I need more control.
Have you found a way around this?
Thanks so much!
Cathy
Hello Cathy,
Yes, I’ve learned to only shoot insects that are quite still. Or for example, if it’s a bee that is flying in and out of flowers, focus instead on the flower. Then when the bee lands on the flower, take the shot. In my personal experience, it is hopeless to continually follow a fast moving insect
Kind Regards.
Tanya.
Hi
i have just purchased Nikon D200 along with Nikon AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED lens… and trying to click some micro photos.. and i am looking for help.. I couldn’t get that close to the subject or what is the close focus distance, is it 6 inches. i thought i could focus an object just one inch away with this lens, am i went wrong.. or couldn’t able to figure it out .. plz help
Hello Raju,
First I have to say, you have an excellent set up for macro photography. The minimum focal distance on that lens is 1 foot or 12 inches.
Kind Regards.
Tanya.
I’ve already purchased my macro lens and am waiting eagerly for it to be delivered .. these photos has inspired me even more with macro-photography .. I would definitely keep in mind of the above mentioned techniques .. tataaaz
Hi, i’m a newbie to Photography and recently bought the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens. I tried to photograph a fly the other day but couldnt get a close view of it. the macro doesn’t have the zoom, so just wanted to know how you could get such close up photos? do you have to be physically very close to the subject. or could you adjust it with the lens?
thanks
Hello Iman,
Yes you do have to be physically close to the subject, for example say 30cm. As you said, this lens does not have a zoom. Another idea is to be further away to take the shot, then possibly crop the image so it only displays the fly. But yes, for the most part you do have to be quite close to the subject.
Kind Regards.
Tanya.
Hello
I think that this is a very good post with some excellent example photographs. Taking pictures of hover flies in flight is very difficult – I’ve tried it!
I have a website called Macro Photography for Beginners which may be of interest to any newbies to macro photography.
Hi thankyou for sharing the images i was trying to pic a macro lens for my canon 20d your images have made my mind up for me, they are fantastic. I wish there were more people like you in the world that are willing to give free advice without any catch, keep up the good work
kind regards dave
Hi Dave, I’m happy to hear you’ve found our advice useful
Tanya, WOW! These are absolutely incredible shots!! I am contemplating purchasing the Canon 100mm and I think I am convinced! I have never used and do not know much about a macro light. When do you use it? To be able to use a faster shutter speed? Also, when do you use extension tubes? How much closer do they actually get you?
Thank you so much for sharing this information and your phenomenal pictures!! It helps so much to know the techy stuff behind the art.
Hi, firstly thank you for your comments
I use a macro light to help me achieve a faster shutter speed in low light. In the case of macro lenses, this also refers to when the subject is in a shady area. It allows me to shoot with an f stop of 11 or higher, yet with a fast speed, which gives more detail in the subject. It’s also important to shoot with a faster shutter speed if the subject is moving as insects do *smiles*.
I dont use extension tubes all that often. They are handy keeping in your camera bag for times when you may not have your macro lens with you. For example, when I holiday I don’t usually carry all my lenses with me, including the macro. So if I come across something I want to photograph in macro, I’ll use a telephoto lens with an extension tube.
Hope this answers your questions. Kind Regards.
Tanya.
Incredible pictures! Please excuse my lack of knowledge in photography as I am just getting into the SLR arena. You commented that you rarely use the 2.8 appeture and I noticed that the “sweet spot” you reference is more in the F11/14 area. Can you get the same affect using a 18-200mm F3.5-5.6 ?
Hello Cindy,
Every lens is different. However, I have found a lens set at 200mm at F3.5 for instance, will give a similar effect as a macro on F 2.8. Without the detail seen in a macro of course.
Kind Regards.
Tanya Puntti
Love the macro shots, I have purchased a Canon 40D SLR, and only have the twin lens at the moment. I love taking macro shots and would like to purchase a good macro lens that will take detail shots of my subject. I have a budget so I can spend too much, what lens will do the job for me which will suit my camera, I was reading about Canon MP-E 65mm macro photo. Will this suit my camera and for what I want to do. Please help.
Hi,
I can’t say I’ve used that specific macro lens myself, however here is a link to someone who has: http://www.flickr.com/photos/villiv/2646629619/
I also notice they use a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM for later images. I’m sure they would be able to let you know the main differences
Kind Regards.
Tanya.
I am blown away by the sharpness of your pics. I have just bought a Nikon D60 & have the kit lenses, but I couldn’t get sharp enough results of close up flowers, so I just got a Nikkor fixed 60mm. I,m still having problems with tack sharpness. I thought you had to use F11/16/22/32 for the depth of field on flowers, but I see some of yours are at the other end of the Fstop range. What is defraction all about? Do you think I should be able to get sharp images from the 60mm lens?
Thanks for any help! Stephanie
——————–
Hello Stephanie,
Yes, you should be able to get sharp images from any lens, including the 60mm. There are many reasons why your images may not be sharp, even with camera settings of F11/16/22.
Have a look at the EXIF data (photo properties) of your images and check if the shutter speed is equal to or faster than 1/60 of a second. Hence, if you use a focal length of 60mm, then your shutter speed needs to be at minimum 1/60th of a second to take sharp photographs. If not, then it means your camera is taking the image too slowly for F11/16/22 aperture. If this is the case, then increase your ISO to say 800 and see if it’s any better.
re your question on defraction, there is a good explanation at: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/u-diffraction.shtml After reading the tutorial, you’ll see why it’s not often recommended to set your F stop to 32
Kind Regards.
Tanya.
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Hi, Your picture are inspirational! I have a Canon Powershot SX20 IS point and shoot, I’ve been experimenting with the macro settings, I was curious if I am able to attain the same kind of sharpness as your pictures?
Genevieve
Tanya,
Great website, agree with all your useful advice. I have a Canon 100 macro!!! best lens on the planet for macro work. (If you have a Canon camera that is!) I also have close focus filters for all my lenses too! Usually +2 is the best, reducing aberations and keeping things manageable, f8/11 and 16 are the best to work with for DoF. I chose close focus filters over ext tubes to retain the fast 2.8 on all my lenses, You usually lose a couple of stops with a full tube set. I use a ring flash by Marumi, only cost £114, but still retains the TTLII of my Canon. My speciality is spiders!!! But I pick up the odd mini creature along the way!!!! Hoping to move to Australia soon! !But I dont recommend macro when photographing crocodiles!!! regards and best wishes Dave Cooper
I love your website. I am a very amateur photographer and was recently given a Canon EOS Rebel XS. Macro photography intrigues me and I have looked into purchasing a Canon EF 100mm 2.8 lens and the Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX flash; however, I am concerned that I will not be able to get the kind of results with my Rebel XS as you have (as shown in your pictures above) with your Canon 400D. Any thoughts or advice? Can I take good macro shots with a Rebel XS? Thanks so much!
thanks so much for the tutorial , ive always been fasinated by macro , and now i’ve nicked hubbys dslr i can finally have some fun , cant wait to try out all you tips
thanks again for sharing
Hi Tanya,
I’m a Sports Photographer who usually takes around 35,000 to 40,000 pictures each season. Here’s my website if you’d like to check out some “larger” images.
I’ve recently decided for relaxation
) I’m going to do start doing some macro work. I already had the Canon 100 mm 2.8 L macro lens and the Canon Macro Twin Lite MT-24 EX flash ordered and on the way before I ran across your site. I was thinking this would go nicely with my Canon 7D and your wonderful site and great information hasn’t changed my mind any. I’m planning an upgrade soon to the Canon EOS Mark IV and suspect this will not only improve my sports shooting, but will likely come in handy for macro work as well.
Thanks much for the time you spent making this information available. I habitually have to shoot wide open at 2.8 to fit the night and inside lighting conditions, so your comment about going narrower will save me this learning step!
Great information thank you for the links which help get a greater technical side of Macro Photography
Thank you for providing such invaluable information. I am new to SLR photography and have a Nikon D90 as well as a Tamron Micro lens which I am experimenting with. Your photographs are amazing, and the info about them helps me understand how to adjust what I am doing. Also, the comment section and your thoughtful and detailed answers to questions are also awesome. I think I need to work on learning my camera’s focus area settings. I seem to get a limited area of my close-ups in focus. Also, I too was using a large aperture too often!! Gotta run…my camera is calling me!
Hello Tanya,
I was looking up information on extension tubes and found your very impressive site. I have noticed with my canon 60mm 2.8 macro lens on a canon 350 D, that I need to get real close to subjects and that tends to scare them off. At only 60mm it is otherwise a great lens and can be used for portraits as well. I have seen some tubes in a choice of manual or auto focus, the price is around £20.00 or £130 with auto focus for a set of three. I would like to get some frame filling images for my wildlife website. At the moment I need to crop an 8 mp image and that can some times compromise the print size. Also at times I use a canon 70 to 300 or sigma 150 to 500 lens but have to stand back due to limited close up focusing and still some times need to crop after. So your information and advice has helped me decide, thank you very much.
Regards
Steve
I have a nikon D40 and I am looking for a good macro lens. I just cannot afford the Nikon 105….I was looking at a Tokina AT-X 100mm f/2.8 PRO D Macro Lens …which sells for 399. Are you familar with this lens and your thoughts on it.
Thanks
Jean
I believe so yes. I just did a quick search on Flickr and found a group of photographers who do use Canon Powershots for macros with great results: http://www.flickr.com/search/groups/?w=905557%40N23&m=pool&q=macro
Yes, the Rebel XS is actually better than the 400D as far as technical features go. You should be able to take great macro shots with it
Have fun!
I’ve never used Tokina lenses myself personally so can’t vouch either way. Your best bet is to search a Flickr group and ask around in there about the advantages and disadvantages.
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